The Philo-philes mean business.
Less than 24 hours after Phoebe Philo opened her webstore selling her new, long-awaited signature collection, more than half of the offering has already sold out, a quick perusal of the site’s main “shop all” page suggests.
Stocks of embroidered skirts, asymmetrical tailored tops, gold and silver necklaces spelling out “Mum,” scarf tops, leather jackets with attachable scarves, high-heeled loafers, goggle-like sunglasses, triple-pouch handbags, cargo pants and high-neck sweaters were all depleted as of 9:30 a.m. central European time.
Still up for grabs were a menswear-style tailored coat, oversized tote bags, spiky dahlia brooches, minidresses with fluffy thread embroideries, and funnel-neck trench coats.
The most anticipated collection of 2023 was finally unveiled to press last Friday during one-on-one appointments in London showroom, with clothes hung on racks and jewelry and accessories displayed on tables, as reported.
The embargo was lifted on Monday afternoon in tandem with Phoebephilo.com going live.
The acclaimed British designer’s first designs under her new signature brand, which she’s been incubating for more than three years, covers the gamut of categories, spanning ready-to-wear, footwear, handbags, jewelry and eyewear.
It comprises 150 styles, with the first of three deliveries the most significant in size. The second edit, A2, will arrive in spring 2024.
Retail prices for A1 range from $1,400 to $2,400 for trousers; $2,200 to $8,500 for dresses; $3,600 to $4,800 for knits; $3,600 to $4,500 for tailored jackets; $6,900 to $12,000 for leather jackets, and $16,500 to $25,000 for shearling jackets. Shoes run from $1,100 to $1,750 and handbags from $3,500 to $8,500.
Most of the collection is manufactured in Italy. Initially, Philo’s online store will ship to addresses in the U.K., Europe and the U.S.
She plans to release future “edits” – her name for collections – according to her own schedule, rather than the standardized fashion calendar. She sees her designs as seasonless and part of a continuous body of work.
Quantities on the site calibrated to fall short of demand and eliminate overproduction — perhaps the biggest blight of the fashion industry.
“As part of our determination to address overall environmental impact, our focus is on the material issues of overconsumption, waste and the fashion supply chain. Our aim is to create a product that reflects permanence,” the fashion house said in a brief statement. “The Phoebe Philo business model is designed to create a responsible balance between production and demand. For us, this means producing notably less than anticipated want.”
Anticipation for the collection has reached peak levels since Philo revealed in July 2021 that she would be returning to fashion with a new, independent house, and with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton as a minority investor.
WWD broke the news in February 2020 that Philo had started planning a new collection and was interviewing designers.
One of the most revered — and bankable — designers of her generation, she is probably best known for engineering a brand rejuvenation at LVMH-owned Celine. Season after season she minted covetable clothes and distinctive handbags, accruing an intensely loyal fan base.
A graduate of London’s Central Saint Martins, Philo was classmates with Stella McCartney and worked with her when McCartney launched her own collection after graduation. Philo followed McCartney to Chloé in 1997 and took the top job in 2001 when McCartney left to set up her own fashion house in a joint venture with Gucci Group.
The designer has kept a low profile since exiting Celine at the end of 2017, and seems to prefer things that way.